Saturday, May 24, 2014

Morioka...teapots and noodles (Morioka-area Weekend Part 2)

There are "Three Great Noodles of Morioka," jajamen, reimen and wanko soba.
We finished up day one of our weekend by finding a restaurant with jajamen.

Hot JaJa just happened to be right next to our hotel, R&B Hotel, which just happened to be the smallest room we've ever encountered...coming in at a cozy 97 sq ft! For those that don't immediately grasp square footage, that's smaller than 10ft x 10ft...and includes the bathroom. Yes, I knew it was that small when I booked the room, but for $50 and one night...oh well!

So back to the jajamen...the noodles are similar in size to udon, made of soy and wheat. They're served with a topping of meat-miso sauce, cucumber and green onion. Ginger, garlic, vinegar and hot pepper oil are on the side/table and can be added. Before eating you mix everything up well. When you're done eating the noodles there are eggs available on the table...crack one into your bowl, mix it and then call the staff over to make you chi-tan-tan (egg soup) using the hot water the noodles were cooked in. It's all very delicious. Our experience wasn't all that smooth, we didn't know what we were doing and each ordered a set from the menu that included several side dishes...some were good...others...not so much... We had no idea what we'd really eaten, Keenan was guessing there was pig's feet in the salad, I thought the kimchi had some sort of sea creature in it. When we got home I translated the menu...see caption below for the results!


We ordered one of the first set and one of the second set.
First set: jajamen, pig's feet salad (yuck), edamame, octopus kimchi and a beer.
Second set: jajamen, and 5 sides (I think). We got edamame, octopus kimchi, gyoza, a tofu dish and a potato curry stew(?).
Next time we will just order jajamen...it's filling enough without the extras!
Gyoza
Potato curry, tofu and pig's feet salad.
This is what our jajamen looked like, I forgot to take a pic before digging in!
Egg soup.
How to eat jajamen:
1-3. First you mix the noodle and miso. Then you choose favorite seasoning.
(vinegar, spicy oil, garlic paste, pepper or salt, meat miso)
4. After eaten we will make chi-tan-tan (egg soup). Please put egg on the dish.
5. Please push to call for staff. We will cook chi-tan-tan.
6. Chi-tan-tan. Please add miso, salt or pepper.

Japan has seasonal Fanta flavors...found pineapple!


We started off day 2 with our complimentary breakfast at the hotel. We had juices, pastries and beef, tomato and corn soups. Nothing spectacular...but adequate.

Our first stop of the day was Morioka Hachiman Shrine. Originally built in 1680 the site is now over 300 years old, however, the shrine was most recently rebuilt in 1997. 

Hachiman is a god (kami) in the Shinto religion. Hachiman is the second most common type of shrine, Inari is the most common. Hachiman is the "God of War," but is also described as the god of warriors (most samurai worshiped him) and protector of Japan, Japanese people and the Imperial house. The symbol and messenger of Hachiman is the dove. 
[Once again I'll say...at least this is the way I understand it...]


Komainu (guard lion)
I look so teeny under that torii gate!


Next stop of our morning was Iwachu Casting Works, a very well known cast iron factory. This is where Nambu iron teapots are made. They are one of the best known products of northern Japan. I have seen the teapots in lots of antique/thrift/souvenir stores, I wanted to see firsthand how they are made!


350 kg (770 lbs) iron teakettle. The largest in the world.

There are several steps to making an iron kettle. They had the explanations printed on the wall in English. One of the employees (who seemed thrilled that we were there) wanted to explain the whole process to us. Unfortunately, he didn't speak any English and even though we told him we didn't speak Japanese he just kept on going. We politely nodded and acted like we were understanding!

The teapot and trivet I brought home!


From Iwachu Casting Works we went to Morioka Handi-Works Square, a facility where you can "feel, touch and create" traditional craftworks and foods of Morioka. There is no entry fee, but each hands-on activity has a cost. We checked out the "Exhibition Area" (shopping) and the "Workshop Area." In the workshop area there are several activities including pottery, painting, basket weaving and making food. Many of the activities are more for children than adults and we felt some of them were a little pricey. They also have workshops where you can observe teapots (same maker as above) and tansus (wooden chests) being made.

We chose to make sembei rice crackers and Morioka Reimen!


Rolling out the dough.
Baking the cracker...
Finished product...it tasted ok...not a new fav.
Giant Chagu Chagu Umako (horse doll).
A symbol of Morioka and its annual horse festival.
Wisteria in bloom. So pretty!

Morioka Reimen...another of the "Three Great Noodles of Morioka." Reimen was originally a Korean dish but was introduced to Japan in the 1950's. The noodles are very rubbery and served in a cold soup along with beef, cucumber, boiled egg and a piece of fruit such as watermelon, apple or pear. Kimchi is either already in the soup or served on the side so that the spiciness can be adjusted. The fruit is supposed help soothe the spiciness.

We made our own reimen! It was actually really fun! The first step was using our hands to mix flour with boiling water and then kneading it for what seemed like forever. Keenan needed some assistance, but he'd never kneaded anything before. I thought I was doing fine...guess not...because I was given assistance as well. The dough has to be worked until it's very tight so the noodles have their notable rubbery texture. Next step is to put the dough in a press to make the noodles and boil them. After boiling they have to be rinsed and rubbed against a strainer under cold water. We tried to do the fancy traditional way of arranging the noodles in the bowl, but it was obvious we were rookies! Next the toppings and soup are added. 

It was delicious! Definitely something I'd have again! The noodles were impossible to chew rubbery, but somehow that was still ok.



Close up of Morioka.
Light green - Handi-work Square.
Green - Morioka Station.
Purple - R&B Hotel/Hot JaJa.
Red - Hachiman Shrine.
Brown - Iwachu Casting Works.

We took the long way home and drove up the coast, it took a lot longer than the toll road but it was a pretty drive.

World's smallest beer? Or really big hands?
Super small hotel room....that's slightly smaller
than a full size bed I think...
You know the bathroom's small when the sink
overhangs the toilet and the tub...

Up next: Azalea Festival and Gelato!

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